Midsommar (2019) and Clothing as Community

Anna Ryle

A24 indie film 'Midsommar'  is probably most well-known for its unique costume design. In this post, I'm going to be looking into the costume designs of one of my favourite films , looking closely at the designs and symbolism as well as delving into the director 'Ari Aster' and customer designer 'Andrea Flesch''s commentary surrounding the costume design and the reasons behind it as well as my own interpretations. 

“The idea was to really recreate a traditional Swedish community and their manner of dress.” Said Flesch."It was very important that it didn't become a 'high fashion' kind of thing," . "So you can believe that these people are working on their clothes for 90 years for this big event. Not everything is perfect.” The delicate, white dresses,  floral embroidery, handwoven textiles, and hundred-year-old fabrics creates an organic, earthy, homemade aesthetic reflecting the themes of rebirth and purity.  The incorporation of flowers in 'Midsommar;' is vital to Asters portrayal of the Asters’ vision was to have the Hårga community all dressed in white, both men and women, and wearing floral garland crowns — a symbol of rebirth and fertility.The silhouettes of the costumes differ by the age groups , they are divided into four life stages described as seasons , each age demographic having different roles to play within the Hårga community. The younger men are seen in cropped trousers representative and meaningful to the sub-groups that make up the community. For example, the senior male members (aged 54-72) wear "frocks," explained by an elder as a tribute to the "hermaphroditic" aspect of nature. "This community raises a child all together, so the ‘societal norms’ are not important: mother and father, women and man," explains Flesch. " The clothing is  ‘gender neutral’ as the elder men wear dresses and skirts , believing the ‘gender’ is not important.The traditional white and embroidered folk-style clothing has its own unique meaning in the seemingly dream like, but actually deadly world of "Midsommar,”.

There is an evident distinction in costume design between Dani, Christian, Josh and Mark in the beginning to the middle of the film and the Hårga community. Their casual clothes consisting of jeans and plain, dark basic t-shirts represent them very much as outsiders .This idea is perpetuated by the dark and grungey costume design that contrasts with the bright, organic and blinding cinematography. Dani’s outfits at the beginning of the film are also representative of her mental state, the severe depression she is experiencing after the disturbing death of her family . She dresses in casual lounge wear , almost like pyjamas showing no great deal of care and a complete juxta- position to the bright and clean manner of dress shown by the Hårga community.

Throughout the film we see Dani undergo a complete transition presented in the  way in which she is dressed as she slowly becomes accustomed to the cult’s unconventional lifestyle and traditions. From the initial t-shirt and joggers, to the white cloth dress and flower crown and ultimately the iconic May queen dress. The transition between the clothing not only shows an external change in Dani’s character but also internal as it is a visual representation of Dani as she sinks into a state of vulnerability. 

Dani’s May Queen dress is the most iconic and one of the most symbolic artifacts in the movie and is worn at the end of the movie after Dani has undergone a complete change in character and is seen now as no longer an outsider but praised member her new community. Aster had a big vision for the dress. What was most important Aster stated  was that “the flower dress look like a meadow. , not  a fashion statement”. Altogether the dress is made up of around 10,000 silk flowers, along with a spiked crown of forget-me-nots, sweet peas, buttercups, cornflowers, and Persian jewels also included. The dress is used as a visual representation of Dani blossoming into the person she's longed to be among her newfound community and 'family', who now assumes the role of the family she had lost. She has finally found a sense of belonging.  Additionally in the film there is the visual affect of the flowers on Dani’s dress moving in and out, showing that her separation with Christian is allowing her to blossom, and ultimately she is at one with nature and in peace. The May queen dress originally worn by Florence Pugh in the film received bids for over £100,000 showing the affect the dress had on its audience. The flower crown that features on the Midsommar key art is beautiful, but Dani's harrowing face tells a different story. Visual affects are also used to show the flowers move in and out making it appear that the flowers are breathing, leaving us to question what is the natural world and what is not.

The Pre-loved Style Tag

Anna Ryle

When and why did you start pre-loved shopping?
It was probably a year and a half ago that I started pre-loved shopping. I'd dibbled in and out of vintage and secondhand clothes shopping without being aware of the environmental impacts. I came across Irish activist and ‘youtuber’ Keelin Moncrieff on my YouTube recommendations and since then have been obsessed. Keelin was the first person to introduce me to and educate me on sustainable and ethical fashion as well as ‘The fast-fashion crisis’. Her videos touch upon the devastating impacts of the fast-fashion industry, ways in which she shops sustainably and fun vintage shopping vlogs. Her witty, light-hearted videos introduced me to a whole new area of the fashion industry I was ignorantly unaware of beforehand and from this point I began to educate myself more on sustainable fashion.

Where are your favorite places to find pre-loved pieces?
When I first started pre-loved shopping, I felt lost as to where I should shop both online and in my home city Newcastle. However, there are a lot more than you think! Some of my own favorite places to vintage shop are Depop, the Urban Renewal section of Urban Outfitters and ASOS Marketplace. I especially love shopping at my local vintage shops and charity shops.
What have been some of your best finds when pre-loved/vintage shopping?
Whilst vintage and pre-loved shopping I've managed to come across some great pieces for literally half or less than their original selling prices. For me, I think one of my favorite finds is my Tommy Hilfiger sweater that I bought for £20 from Depop, super good quality and now a constant go to in my wardrobe. Another one of my favorite finds was bought from one of my local vintage shops and is a Ralph Lauren top for £7! I later altered the top myself and made it into a crop top.

What’s your most expensive pre-loved by?
The most expensive pre-loved piece I have bought would probably be a black, over-sized dad blazer which was even still only £25 from Depop! I’m absolutely obsessed, it’s super cool and classy. I can dress it up with a dress and down with joggers.

What tips would you give to someone who is beginning pre-loved shopping?
There are a few tips I would give that I think are important. Personally, I would say find your own style first. When you’re shopping on fast-fashion websites such as ‘Pretty Little Thing’, ‘Miss Guided’ and ‘ASOS ‘you are used to clothes being displayed out in front of you in a way that is ‘aesthetically pleasing’, looking fresh and clean with professionally produced photos. However, places like ‘Depop’ aren’t necessarily considered ‘aesthetically pleasing’ and at times it can look like a jumble sale on your screen with grainy photographs and dim lighting. Additionally, get to know your own style, look on Pinterest or Instagram for style inspiration, so if you see a piece of clothing you like you can look it up on these vintage websites instead of scrolling for forever on fast-fashion websites. With that being said, my other piece of advice is do not go into pre-loved/vintage shopping with something particular in mind as you won’t always be able to find it second hand, but don’t let this put you off, take your time and enjoy it.  

Consumerism is Killing the Planet 

Anna Ryle

Look down at your shoes. Do you know where they came from? Do you know where they were made? Let me tell you the ugly truth. Now days, you can grab a dress for a price as little as £5 which is practically the price of a Starbucks coffee.
What is fast fashion?
‘Fast Fashion ‘is the rapid manufacturing of clothes to keep up with the latest fashion styles and trends which may be out of style the following week. The idea of ‘Fast-Fashion’ came from the social construct that makes us believe that we must have a new outfit for everyday of our lives, or for every new photo we post on Instagram, which now days is made easier as within a click of a button we can order an outfit with the change we find in our back pockets. However little do people know, buying cheap comes at a high price. The exchange to sustainable fashion is an extremely important and necessary transition to follow. We are the generation that must wipe out the Fast-Fashion industry. There is no planet B.



The effects of Fast-Fashion
“Approximately 7,000 liters of water are needed to produce one pair of jeans (the amount of water one individual drinks in 5-6 years.”
Fast fashion is a very multi-dimensional issue which affects many elements of the human and biological world. It is the second contributor to climate change- the first being energy which relates to the burning of fossil fuels constantly to provide you with a flashy outfit for Friday night. We understand that the burning of fossil fuels adds to the greenhouse effect and increases global warming, therefore we must change our shopping habits to help combat this before it becomes irreversible. When textile clothing leeks into landfills the chemicals on the clothes, such as the dye, causes environmental damage by leaching the chemicals into the ground. Everything is covered in plastic; everything is manufactured unethically and is harming the planet severely. The industry created a ‘see it want it now 'mentality therefore as you flick through social media, you are suddenly in the position of ordering an outfit straight away. By 2030, there will be 1.5-degree rise in temperatures, to combat this, we need to change our shopping habits now. This speed up the process of manufacturing; therefore, we must cut costs and cut corners to make the manufacturing of the clothing quicker. There are many hidden human costs of fast fashion. Fast-fashion is known for its exploitation and deprivation of fast-fashion workers. One in six people work in the fast fashion industry; many of these workers are earning less than £2.50 a day! Also, the fast-fashion industry is not just disastrous for a farmer’s income but stories of farmer’s committing suicide due to failing crops are rife. Even if the crops are successful, they are forced to sell the cotton at rock bottom prices, leaving the workers constantly in limbo. As consumers, we are completely stripping away the lives of those most unfortunate.





Tips for a smaller fashion footprint!
Quality not quantity.
Rather than spending £5 on a dress which straps are likely to snap the following week, buy clothes for longevity. Buying ecofriendly clothes decreases your carbon footprint, therefore feel encouraged to purchase good quality good’s which are likely to last rather than buying a week’s worth of a dress.


Care for your cashmere.
This sounds obvious but it is so important. Rediscover your wardrobe and work with what you have. The idea that we must have a new outfit for everyday is unrealistic and is destroying the environment.


Go thrifting!
Thrifting isn’t always floral dresses and holy jeans. Thrift shopping is a fun and alternative way to shop and is a great way of reducing your carbon footprint and picking up classic vintage pieces.


Do your research.
Ask questions and discover the world of fashion yourself. The more knowledge you have, the more informed you will be to make the right choice.


Go for eco-friendly materials
The environmental impact of the clothing industry is largely determined by the production of chemicals. Choose natural materials such as organic cotton, linen and bamboo.

Finding Confidence in Fashion 

Anna Ryle

I'm such a firm believer that the feeling of happiness you get when you’re wearing an outfit you love is amazing and can be super valuable and confidence boosting. Fashion allows you to present yourself in the way that you want to and let yourself gain a sense of individuality and authenticity, helping you become more confident and feel more secure within yourself.

A lot of the time many people feel afraid to step outside their comfort zone due to the fear of being judged by other people and trust me I've been there. But seriously when you take a step back you come to face the harsh truth; you learn to accept that no one really cares, it’s your own mind that subconsciously convinces yourself this. Everyone is too self-absorbed to worry about what you're wearing and whether you think it’s ‘weird’ or ‘strange’. No one cares. Therefore  this gives you the best excuse to wear whatever the hell you want! Like I said when you’re wearing an outfit you love, the confidence boost you receive is like no other and it would be such a shame to let this go to waste. So, try to remember, no one cares.


Growing up I've grown through some questionable fashion phases. Mesh top with Calvin Klein bra underneath? Tick. Aluminous bright pink satchel bag? Tick. Bowler hat, skater skirt and braces combo? Tick. Through my own journey through fashion, I've learnt what colours, textures and styles make me feel good. Pinks and greens make me feel happy, neutrals make me feel confident and stylish, my enormous buffalo trainers make me feel powerful and fur jackets make me feel fabulous. As I look back , I sometimes  cringe  at my fashion journey and past phases of fashion. However I come to realise that although I may regret some fashion choices, it’s meant I have been able to grow creatively. Also, as a young teen I always held back from trying out different styles in fear of what people would think or say however I finally just went for it, starting off slowly. I remember so distinctly starting off by buying my first oversized blue striped shirt and baggy ripped mom jeans. If I hadn't of grown the confidence to explore fashion, I wouldn’t have discovered certain things about myself if I’d held onto my main insecurity and concern over worrying about what other people thought of me. Life is too short to care what people think and not be experimental, it’s a form of creativity and showing your true self. Don’t hold back. No one really cares about if you go to your local supermarket in a bright pink utility suit. YOU DO YOU!!The way in which we dress is a way of us being able to express who we are, so stop dressing like somebody else. Stand out and be yourself queen.  

Fashion Trends and Icons of the 1920's

Anna Ryle

The 1920’s introduced a new, revolutionary era of women. In the 1920’s, A ‘flapper’ was a fashionable young woman, intent of enjoying herself and flouting conventional standards of behavior. After decades of female conformity, the 1920;’s saw the emergence of the single-minded woman. Flappers of the 1920’s were young women known for their energetic sense of freedom, embracers of life, viewed by many as ‘out of control’ and ‘wild’. However today flappers are women who pushed the barriers of economic, political and sexual freedom for women. Flappers were the catalyst for the women's liberations movement. They were the faces of female activism throughout the 1920’s, providing humor with a political twist.
Unlike previous years, women who identified as ‘flappers’ wore clothes with ease and fun, juxtaposing fashion restrictions beforehand such as corsets which were now exchanged for bras and lingerie. Legs were now on show, with shorter dresses with dropped waists and creeping hemlines. Women’s tendency to dress their legs was also popular, with stockings and garters. Fishnets were only worn by state performers. Novelty shoes were big including oxfords and pumps. ‘Boyish’ bodies also became in fashion, similarly androgenous fashion became popularized for the first time A boyish silhouette took over. Some young women also bandaged down their breasts to achieve the fashionable flat chested look. Many women began to wear suits, long-hemmed trousers and bowler hats. Josephine Baker was An American born French entertainer, civil rights activist and notorious 1920’s flapper, popular particularly in France. Josephene was made known particularly in the early days of celeb endorsement, known for her iconic and influential flapper style. Josephene was known for the eaten crop hair style that was short and severe in her famous banana skirt with jewelry strategically placed over naked breasts, were widely distributed.





During the 1920’s the fitness industry took off and fashion was heavily influenced by sport. Sporting attire became extremely popular amongst men and women. In the 1920s, men and women began to experience leisure time with the newly created work “weekends.” With the free time came a new enjoyment for outdoor sports such as tennis, golf, and sailing. Sport clothes had to be comfortable, easy to move in, and stylish enough for the middle to upper class men that played them. The playing of sports and the driving of cars, including women which was unheard of in previous decades. As the 1920’s magazines showed an obsession with being slim and useful this encouraged young women to incorporate sportswear into their everyday wardrobe.A lot of women wore Tennis dresses and skirts. being slim and useful along with swimsuits that were mainly knitted. The 1920s sportsman’s clothes consisted of light colored baggy pants or even baggier plus fours. Pants would be white or off-white for tennis and sailing or had bold patterns of checks and plaids for golf.



Originally from Chicago, Gloria Swanson was known as the queen of the sound film era, nominated best actress, she was at the height of popularity during the 1920’s. Gloria Swanson was also known as a 1920’s fashion icons. She created clothes that were known for their "outlandish sexual elegance" that included only the most luxurious details, such as pearls, jewels and silk. Gloria Swanson brought fashion, fantasy, and peacocks to the silver screen. In 1920’s film Why Change Your Wife, Swanson wore an evening gown decorated with peacock feathers. Flapper she was one cinema fans found copying style, makeup and dress.


Coco Chanel, also known as Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel, can undoubtedly be crowned the Fashion Queen of the 1920s. The French designer redefined fashion becoming one of the first designers to create 'looser' clothing for women. Coco Chanel is renowned for her timeless designs, trademark suits and in particular ‘the little black dress’. In the 1921, she launched her first perfume and carried on introducing the Chanel suit and the little black dress, with the purpose of making clothes that were more comfortable for women.



Ultimately, the roaring 20’a was a fierce year of jazz, fashion and freewheeling culture.